How do I finance a Fixer upper


Leave the archive and display this page in the standard design: What kind of car do you drive part 6



The one here, just look at the rust (and it's also cheaper):
http://suchen.mobile.de/auto-inserat/mitsubishi-colt-1300-jazz-nur-83000km-t%C3%BCv-au-neu-falkensee-bei-berl/185577369.html?lang=de&pageNumber= 1 & __ lp = 1 & ScopeId = C & sortOption.sortBy = price.consumerGrossEuro & makeModelVariant1.makeId = 17700 & makeModelVariant1.modelId = 6 & makeModelVariant1.searchInFreetext = false & makeModelVariant2.searchInFreetext = false & makeModelVariant3.searchInFreetext = false & minFirstRegistrationDate = 2000-01-01 & maxFirstRegistrationDate = 2004-12-31 & negative features = EXPORT & maxMileage = 125000 & minHu = 0

At 1000 € almost no matter what you take. Look that the maybe relatively fresh TÜV, then you have two years of rest.

Mazda is cheap and reliable

earlier i stood between two old small cars parked on the street. against that, the current kleinST car looks comparatively huge.

http://abload.de/img/25uumd.jpg
http://abload.de/img/1kyury.jpg

as far as optics etc. are concerned, i fell in love with a car for the first time in years. i think it's great and hope that winter will be over quickly so that the right socks can come up with it.


(..)

Kind regards
tobi

I didn't say that the workmanship from Audi is on the level of Tata, I often drive the latest Audi at work and, like many other manufacturers, they only cook with water, the margin has to be right.
Drive a current Q3 or something, you could be disappointed if you have a slightly older A4.

The Adam is one of the few current cars that I find really smart and well made, I haven't ordered one.
I drive a 21-year-old E-Class and hopefully for a long time to come. Current cars are just hopelessly overpriced and the patronizing of electronics annoys me.
When I read € 47,000 on an A3, I don't know whether to laugh or cry, I wouldn't buy one myself for half of it, but everyone has to know what they do with their money.

47,000 € are a decent house number, even for me the money would be a shame but as you said everyone should do what they want.


Ultimately, it's a matter of personal preference.
When I think of Opel (Image: mediadb.kicker.de):

http://mediadb.kicker.de/news/1000/1020/43000/43200/artikel/771766/04-opel-adam-neu-1342166574.jpg

And when I think of BMW (Image: autosmotor.de):

http://www.autosmotor.de/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/BMW-3er-Sport-Line-innenraum.jpg

Then Adam is not hip, not stylish, not modern - just squeaky-colored, childish and ugly. And in the BMW I have a sober, chic living room with comfort and a seat that feels like a made-to-measure suit. I see it this way, someone else sees it the other way round. It would also be boring if only the same thing drives around everywhere.

Personally, I stick to the fact that Opel has really slept through and does not represent a consistent philosophy or any unique selling points.

Now take 100 people and say to them: Go to the car where you can afford 97 people would go to the opel and a maximum of 3 people to BMW;)

Is still relatively cheap when you consider how high the labor costs are. An average engineer goes home with an annual gross amount of 72,000, not including the employer's share. Skilled workers / assembly line workers 55,000 euros. Then the material, then the managers and then the major shareholders. You can work out how many cars have to be sold and how massive the vise has to be, in which the entire supply chain is clamped.

That's why the seller almost starts crying when you tell him you're going to buy the car. Bar: D

Now take 100 people and say to them: Go to the car where you can afford 97 people would go to the opel and a maximum of 3 people to BMW;)

Hit me, but I still believe: a used BMW for 20,000 EUR will last just as long as a new Opel for 20,000 EUR if you don't drive like the last hangman.

: ugly: especially if the timing chain is dismantled; D

: ugly: especially if the timing chain is dismantled; D

Is the case with every BMW: D

Hit me, but I still believe: A used BMW for 20,000 EUR will last just as long as a new Opel for 20,000 EUR if you don't drive like the last hangman.

In my opinion, used and new cars cannot be compared;)

You can get a good 3 for 20K;) but for a 5 you had to reckon with at least 40,000 €. Nowadays you have to have a lot of knowledge when you buy a private used car, otherwise you can happen that you buy a Monday car for 8000 €. As a loan, such a private purchase is a matter of luck if you don't have anyone in your circle of friends who works as a car mechatronics technician.

In my opinion, you can't compare used and new cars;)

You can get a good 3 for 20K already;) but for a 5 you had to reckon with at least 40,000 €. Nowadays you have to have a lot of knowledge when you buy a private used car, otherwise you can happen that you buy a Monday car for 8000 €. As a loan, such a private purchase is a matter of luck if you don't have anyone in your circle of friends who works as a car mechatronics technician.

That's true. I'm not saying that Opel is shit in general. I don't see it that way either. All boil with water. I just think you can get more cars for your money elsewhere, especially in the long term. And you can have bad luck anywhere, including a BMW, of course.

I need a car for a maximum of € 1000. No big requirements except cheap maintenance (I'm a student) and that it lasts 2-3 years for the rest of my studies;) Any ideas? Opel Corsa and Astra as well as VW Golf should be ok for my requirements. How about Skoda and Ford?

With the budget: take what you can get and have a fresh MOT. Golf may not necessarily be too expensive in everything.

That's true. I'm not saying that Opel is shit in general. I don't see it that way either. All boil with water. I just think you can get more cars for your money elsewhere, especially in the long run. And you can be unlucky anywhere, including a BMW, of course.

for me, the longest view on a car is until the last day of the warranty. or the other way around, until the day when the car creates costs at my expense, which were previously capped by guarantee and goodwill.

more auto can mean a lot. for one who is looking for a donkey, a flatbed truck or van or even 7 tonne is "a lot" car. for someone else, full equipment may be more important than the loading volume, the number of doors or the foot space in the rear.

by the way -> porsche is probably really ass when it comes to size - get a double bed from the ikea :-P


(..)

Kind regards
tobi

Is the case with every BMW: D

To believe that an Opel must die in front of a BMW is just as crazy;)

To believe that an Opel must die in front of a BMW is just as crazy;)

Or subjective. I also admit to myself. Experiences with friends, e.g. Nothing happens to other people and they drive for ages. Let it be granted to them :)

That's true. I'm not saying that Opel is shit in general. I don't see it that way either. All boil with water. I just think you can get more cars for your money elsewhere, especially in the long term. And you can be unlucky anywhere, including a BMW, of course.


What makes you think that? This is only reflected in the resale, but that has less to do with the quality than with the view of the people (like you). Just because people are so stupid and buy a 3 series with 150tkm for 15k € has nothing to do with the real quality.

A friend of mine had to replace the complete servo unit 4 weeks after buying his 15k € bar price 530d .... in the 535d before that the turbo was broken after 5000km: D

What makes you think that? This is only reflected in the resale, but that has less to do with the quality than with the view of the people (like you). Just because people are so stupid and buy a 3 series with 150tkm for 15k € has nothing to do with the real quality.

A friend of mine had to replace the complete servo unit 4 weeks after buying his 15k € bar price 530d .... in the 535d before that the turbo was broken after 5000km: D

Here in the circle of acquaintances two Corsas with cracked cylinder heads got there, Vectra with drive damage, Insignia with a dead turbo. In contrast, the 5-series BMW with well over 300,000km, 3-series with over 300,000km, 3-series with 150,000 and virtually zero signs of wear. Admittedly - also driven accordingly.
Realization: none at all. Every manufacturer, every model can be a cucumber, and the previous owner also plays a not insignificant role.
For me, the price per KM counts. So far, BMWs have been a bit more expensive to buy here and in the rest of the family, but very cheap to maintain for a long time. VWs too, by the way.

I only know Audi A4 Avant 1.9TDI built in 2006 that was a disaster ... The part was more in the workshop than it was driven ...

That's true. I'm not saying that Opel is shit in general. I don't see it that way either. All boil with water. I just think you can get more cars for your money elsewhere, especially in the long run. And you can be unlucky anywhere, including a BMW, of course.
BMW has not exactly covered itself with fame lately and has created problems for many users in the long term. In the past, their engines were rock-stable and only the add-on parts weakened after a while, today even some engines are nothing. In addition, problems that occur with many. Problems that arise among acquaintances such as the E46, the blinker flashes very quickly at once or occasional speed fluctuations when walking backwards and the light becomes bright and dark, type in on Google and you will find several people affected. Another problem is that the cause cannot be precisely narrowed down, the best, most sensible solution is sales -> great. : uclap:
The E60, also affected by friends again, suddenly no longer runs on 6 cylinders when it starts up in the morning, then it works again, then again it doesn't.
The workshop does not know the exact cause either, suspecting several causes. Google shows that it is not a rare problem, there is even a risk of major engine damage because there is a risk that the oil film will be washed off by gasoline.
BMW would have to invest significantly more money in the development and especially in the material, so that it stays premium longer and feeds the Quandts less. It's a shame, otherwise nice and fast cars inside and out, but only conditionally suitable as a cheap used car if you need a reliable car every day and cannot afford very expensive repairs.
And too expensive as a new car if you are not a big earner.

BMW has not exactly covered itself with fame lately and has created problems for many users in the long term. In the past, their engines were rock-stable and only the add-on parts weakened after a while, today even some engines are nothing. In addition, problems that occur with many. Problems that arise among acquaintances such as the E46, the blinker flashes very quickly at once or occasional speed fluctuations when walking backwards and the light becomes bright and dark, type in on Google and you will find several people affected. Another problem is that the cause cannot be precisely narrowed down, the best, most sensible solution is sales -> great. : uclap:
The E60, also affected by friends again, suddenly no longer runs on 6 cylinders when it starts up in the morning, then it works again, then again it does not.
The workshop does not know the exact cause either, suspecting several causes. Google shows that it is not a rare problem, there is even a risk of major engine damage because there is a risk that the oil film will be washed off by gasoline.
BMW would have to invest significantly more money in the development and especially in the material, so that it stays premium longer and feeds the Quandts less. It's a shame, otherwise nice and fast cars inside and out, but only conditionally suitable as a cheap used car if you need a reliable car every day and cannot afford very expensive repairs.
And too expensive as a new car if you are not a big earner.

Before you get the wrong impression: I would never buy a BMW as a new car. I find it overpriced myself, and I have no desire, for example, to finance the loss of value for the manufacturer via leasing. As far as reliability is concerned, my experiences are exactly the opposite - even if the mysterious conditions you have described have also occurred in our cars (speed fluctuations when idling, for example). It just never broke anything. I'm not saying that BMW is the best automaker and everyone else is no good. They also make a lot of crap, that is out of the question. Maybe I was just lucky so far, time will tell;)

I don't think 18k for a small (st) car is cheap either. But hopefully he won't have taken it with him at the list price 18k!
Whereby someone who drives his old car to the inspection and spontaneously buys a new car there should also have a rather thick one ...

In general, one always says: if you buy a new one today, it's your own fault (or you don't have to worry about finances anyway) ... +1, I got my Civic almost 1/3 cheaper because it was 14 months old was ...
On the other hand, if nobody would opt for new cars, where should we buy our not-too-old used ones?

... at almost 100,000km after 6 years it can be quite a lot.

that creates a bill between 1400 and 2500 € and once you have paid it, you can continue cruising around with an old scratched car on worn out velor seats and wait for the next bill.

it's a shame if you don't jump in time or recognize the right time. I can do something like that .. But now I also think that you are talking about your spontaneous acquisition! Nothing against spontaneous purchases if you have the money for it, but why do you have to talk it up?

Yes, out of curiosity, I once had an A3 test drive to compare it to the compact one that I bought new for 18k.

I can hardly think of why I should only pay 5k more for an A3. Your Civic 1.8 cost you 18k again !? I think it's a good price.

Kind regards
Rooter

because i'm glad that the change went so smoothly and i didn't get back into the stupid used opel repair spiral, like at some point in the nineties, when the guarantee of my calibras was down. but I was in my early 20s and still pretty stupid inexperienced.

the corsa was a financed leasing vehicle that brought enough for the replacement + entry into the next business. if you don't do that, and would rather pay for 2 huge repairs, you can't help it or you are just stupid.


(..)

Kind regards
tobi

They also build a lot of crap, that is out of the question. Maybe I was just lucky so far, time will tell;)
Yeah, you need a bit of luck and always get the right time window.

Although the Ädäm afaik is built in Eisenach, there shouldn't be as serious workmanship defects as with cars from other locations, since it is a modern plant.

The age of the work plays absolutely no role in the "quality". The car is built by employees and not by the production hall. In addition, all Opel plants work according to one and the same standard.

The age of the work plays absolutely no role in the "quality". The car is built by employees and not by the production hall. In addition, all Opel plants work according to one and the same standard.

Oh well, in a production process where very, very, very many things are automated, the systems do not play a role. Interesting.

I know the systems in R'Heim, Kaiserslautern, Eisenach and Bochum because I worked for Opel until a few years ago. The systems correspond to the same status, just because e.g. Opel Bochum is already 50 years old and there are no more steam engines. ;)

Your Civic 1.8 cost you 18k !? I think it's a good price.


The price was great. At the time (October 2011), the Civics as an annual car from mobile and co were more expensive than a new car from the Honda dealer. : freak:
Was the "everything must go" campaign for the discontinued model.

For anyone who only wants to spend € 1000 on a car, I would definitely recommend a Japanese. They tend to look uglier and some have some rust issues, but I'd say they'll run more reliably. Precisely because these cars have a higher depreciation, there are also some in top condition that are sold well below their actual value. After all, nobody wants an old rice bowl, eh? : D
An old Audi (e.g.) is at least a well-known brand and therefore much more expensive.

because i'm glad that ... i didn't get back into the stupid used opel repair spiral, like sometime in the nineties, when the warranty of my calibras was down.but I was in my early 20s and still pretty stupid inexperienced.

Well, 20 years later you are still driving an Opel ...
: biggrin:
scnr!

corsa was a financed leasing vehicle that brought enough for the replacement + entry into the next business. if you don't do that, and would rather pay for 2 huge repairs, you can't help it or you are just stupid.

Then I must be stupid; have never leased or financed a car; each car paid in cash and sunk about 7K € into the partial restoration of my almost 21 year old MX-5 ...

The bottom line is that the box has cost me around 23K € in the last 14.5 years (including purchase) (all costs excluding taxes / HP / VK and petrol).
The bottom line is about 130 € / month ... I find it relatively moderate.
This should give me "peace and quiet" again for the next 15 years; H license plate will come in 2023.
:)

The bottom line is that the box has cost me around 23K € in the last 14.5 years (including purchase) (all costs excluding taxes / HP / VK and petrol).
The bottom line is about 130 € / month ... I find it relatively moderate.
This should give me "peace and quiet" again for the next 15 years; The H license plate will come in 2023.
:)

at what price did you include your working time? ;)

Then I must be stupid; have never leased or financed a car; each car paid in cash and sunk about 7K € into the partial restoration of my almost 21 year old MX-5 ...


It has nothing to do with stupidity. If the VAT is not a transitory item with you, it rarely makes sense. From a business perspective, the liquidity is retained and you may even end up doing something good with it (often with limited boxes with little / no loss of value).

To the Mazda: Pictures please: D

The bottom line is that the box has cost me around 23K € in the last 14.5 years (including purchase) (all costs excluding taxes / HP / VK and petrol).
The bottom line is about 130 € / month ... I find it relatively moderate.
This should give me "peace and quiet" again for the next 15 years; H license plate will come in 2023.
:)
And how many km do you drive with it per year? Summer + winter?

When I was young I once financed a car (Audi Coupe B2) - an experience for life - afterwards only in cash.

at what price did you include your working time? ;)

Not at all, it's a hobby ... such an antiquated vehicle is technically very manageable.
With 164TKm the engine has run in well:
-> http://www.miata.net/himi/
: biggrin:

But I also had some things done externally (various chassis settings *; cavity sealing with Mike Sanders; convertible top; currently repainting, blasting / re-preserving the underbody and "chassis freshup") because I have neither tools nor know-how / experience for it.
The whole thing makes up roughly € 9K for Pi x Thumb.

* I know you could do that with string and a folding rule, but I've become a lazy sack ...
;)

It has nothing to do with stupidity. If the VAT is not a transitory item with you, it rarely makes sense. From a business perspective, the liquidity is retained and you may even end up doing something good with it (often with limited boxes with little / no loss of value).

In private, it also makes sense if the manufacturer wants to push the box into the market because of market share: For example, I leased my 1-year-old car at the time at far more favorable conditions (including a service flat rate) than would have been possible when I bought it (and took it over later and traded in again myself).
If you include the investment interest for the amount that you didn't have to spend, it was even a super bargain back then (the interest rates were of course much higher).
That always just depends on the specific leasing offer and its conditions as well as the interest rates of the banks.
Of course, commercially you usually have better leasing conditions, of course, but nowadays you can no longer say in general that it is not worthwhile in the private sector, even if this is likely to be the case more often.

I haven't had any bad experiences with leasing yet. Whether financing or leasing is probably also a question of your wallet and how much KM you drive. Our company cars are bought in cash. Recently there was an offer here at the BMW dealer: 125I for 259 € a month 10,000km so I think that's damn cheap.

Cheap or not only comes up after calculating ...

What does that have to do with your wallet, whether you are leasing or financing a car? : confused:

Instead of leasing, you could always take out a loan (that doesn't have to be financing from the dealer bank) and repay it monthly and sell the box towards the end of the planned usage time and finally repay the loan in full with a previously agreed special payment from the sales proceeds .

In principle it is almost the same. With leasing you can have trouble returning it, if you don't lease again, bad luck with the sale when borrowing. Leasing is actually primarily aimed at paying for the loss of value and returning the car, while financing is based on taking over the car. Depending on the conditions, one or the other can be better and that doesn't necessarily depend on your wallet if you are assuming the same car now.

For some, the problem is certainly that they are not the brightest candles in the chain of lights when they calculate and like to take over when they lease or finance things or include things in the car's equipment that nobody wants to pay for when they are resold. others may not understand the principle correctly either and always assume the full purchase price and expect the vehicle to really move until the end of the term and / or beyond. * cough * to make the numbers nice is the job of the seller - I know my 20 years - we work great together!

therefore a good tip would be -> get your ass up, do something else cool to impress people and stay normal with the car.

No woman likes guys with a beer belly, bald head and lazy teeth - not even when such a person gets out of a porsche and into a ferrari.


(..)

Kind regards
tobi

What a statement!

I predict: A math genius who gets out of an Opel Ädäm will not stand in the 3dc either: ugly:

For some, the problem is certainly that they are not the brightest candles in the chain of lights and like to take over when they lease or finance things or include things in the car's equipment that nobody wants to pay for when they are resold. Others may not understand the principle correctly either and always assume the full purchase price and expect the vehicle to really move until the end of the term and / or beyond. * cough * to make the numbers nice is the job of the seller - I know my 20 years - we work great together!

therefore a good tip would be -> get your ass up, do something else cool to impress people and stay normal with the car.

No woman likes guys with a beer belly, bald head and lazy teeth - not even when such a person gets out of a porsche and into a ferrari.


(..)

Kind regards
tobi

That was good; D; D; D
I buy a car the way I like it and not how I can best sell it again.
In addition, buying a new car = burning money. But it's nice if the seller is a buddy, he is happy every 3 years ...

Cheap or not only comes up after calculating ...

What does that have to do with your wallet, whether you are leasing or financing a car? : confused:

Instead of leasing, you could always take out a loan (that doesn't have to be financing from the dealer bank) and repay it monthly and sell the box towards the end of the planned usage time and finally repay the loan in full with a previously agreed special payment from the sales proceeds .

In principle it is almost the same. With leasing you can have trouble returning it, if you don't lease again, bad luck with the sale when borrowing. Leasing is actually primarily aimed at paying for the loss of value and returning the car, while financing is based on taking over the car. Depending on the conditions, one or the other can be better and that doesn't necessarily depend on your wallet if you are assuming the same car now.

So that was what the purse meant you can now lease a car for 70 € a month. Of course, there is no BMW for this (without a deposit). but there are no limits to the top.

You can also finance one for 70 € / month, including a BMW (the final installment looks accordingly);)
Ok, you probably mean in contrast to the (non-leveraged) cash purchase.

I would love to see some sample calculations here: biggrin :. I drive my well-equipped, but run-of-the-mill used 3-series for currently <0.38 € / km (even a few cents less if I included the - low - residual value). But then everything is included, from the purchase price to service, depreciation, wear parts, operating costs and the washing system; and paid for in full with a downward trend per kilometer (or I even have a currently not nearly exhausted buffer of 3000 € + p.a. for unexpected repairs, in addition to normal maintenance, before the price per km would get higher).

It is of course only possible at the expense of an "old" car - but the ADAC gives the cost of a new Adam (just one example;)) at around 33-40ct per kilometer. And when I have the choice between a new mini-Opel or an old mid-range BMW at practically identical costs, the matter is clear to me: smile :.

Well, you should also provide a few more details about the 3 series.
Correct 3aa is already available for 500 € at mobile.

Then I would prefer the Opel; D



My new :)
tell a little more :)

My new :)

Sexy :)

I would love to see some sample calculations here: biggrin :. I drive my well-equipped, but run-of-the-mill used 3-series for currently <0.38 € / km (even a few cents less if I included the - low - residual value). But then everything is included, from the purchase price to service, depreciation, wear parts, operating costs and the washing system; And paid for in full with a downward trend per kilometer (or I even have a currently not nearly exhausted buffer of € 3,000 + p.a. for unexpected repairs, in addition to normal maintenance, before the price per km would get higher).


2000 Omega B 3.0 Executive with LPG. Almost everything in terms of equipment that was available at the time except PDC, rear seat heating and limited-slip differential (but I keep thinking: D). With the help of the LPG calculator including the purchase price and 2 small repairs as well as the rest of the bells and whistles that arise, the last 25000km cost me just under ~ 28 cents per 1km (now only counting city traffic). That is also the reason, apart from the fact that I really like my car: D, why I always find a new / different one to be pointless - would be a burning of money for me. Unless one would buy something "more extreme" in the sense of less everyday use .... So one of the mind exposes: D

PS: I've never calculated it like that, and somehow I don't care: D

Edit: Shame on me, I forgot taxes and insurance ... come to ~ 32Cent :(

Again: where should the soot particles that are created with direct injection go?
I don't like to quote Wikipedia, but this is where it fits:

http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dieselruß#Entstehung_von_Dieselru.C3.9F


There is no physical basis that the additives from Ultimate and Co. produce fewer particles. The "miracle" additives (which, by the way, degrade very quickly in your tank and in the petrol station, then you actually have less octane than with Super +;)) in this fuel only serve to increase the octane number. It's just stupid that engines without map adjustment are tuned up to a maximum of RON98 (Super +) and therefore do not provide any additional performance ...
This is also reflected in the marketing of Aral and Shell: At first, both fuels were only advertised purely with an alleged increase in performance and then gradually replaced by V-Power / Aral Ultimate, especially at motorway filling stations, Super +. When the majority of the Super + customers did not play along, Super + was reintroduced in parallel and, in terms of marketing, the engine was switched to "better combustion" and "protection" of the engine (in some cases there is no longer anything to be read about increased performance), but nothing has been changed in terms of fuel. ..

Also a happy new year!

As usual, theory and practice are different pairs of shoes because
the end caps of my 35i are not charred.
In addition, the additives work very well, even in the last midsummer, midday heat, always had to push without this "knocking stuff" and again, I'm not interested in the advertised extra performance.
It's like organic, one tanking it, the other eating it ...

I would love to see some sample calculations here: biggrin :. I drive my well-equipped but run-of-the-mill used 3 Series for currently <0.38 € / km (even a few cents less if I included the - low - residual value). But then everything is included, from the purchase price to service, depreciation, wear parts, operating costs and the washing system; And paid for in full with a downward trend per kilometer (or I even have a currently not nearly exhausted buffer of € 3,000 + p.a. for unexpected repairs, in addition to normal maintenance, before the price per km would get higher).

It is of course only possible at the expense of an "old" car - but the ADAC gives the cost of a new Adam (just one example;)) at around 33-40ct per kilometer. And when I have the choice between a new mini-Opel or an old mid-range BMW at practically identical costs, the matter is clear to me: smile :.

I thought I am the only one who is so crazy and gives himself a full crack in Excel: D. My E91 320d is built in 2009 with currently 153000km. If you write off 6 years of holding time or 220,000 km, including insurance, tax, fuel, small items (laundry, lightbulbs, etc.) and workshop (previously oil and brake fluid changed), I come to 0.36 EUR per kilometer.

Nope, you're not the only one. I do that too, I'm at around € 0.65 / km, but also have more taxes, insurance and fuel costs and probably higher spare parts prices.

I thought I am the only one who is so crazy and gives himself a full crack in Excel: D. My E91 320d is built in 2009 with currently 153000km. If you write off 6 years of holding time or 220,000 km, including insurance, tax, fuel, small items (laundry, lightbulbs, etc.) and workshop (previously oil and brake fluid changed), I come to 0.36 EUR per kilometer.


Incl. Purchase price?

As usual, theory and practice are different pairs of shoes because
the end caps of my 35i are not charred.
In addition, the additives work best, even in the last midsummer, midday heat, always had to push without this "knocking stuff" and again, I am not interested in the advertised extra performance.
It's like organic, one tanking it, the other eating it ...
Blafasel to the power of ten: Physical fundamentals don't just change in practice, they also apply there. It has nothing to do with any theories. If your engine knocks at 98 RON, even knocks so that you notice it, something is completely wrong.

Incl. Purchase price?

Yes, I am not copying anything;). Bought second-hand, calculated straight-line depreciation over the estimated holding period. Perhaps I should have added that. When I took him over, he was 4 years old with an odometer reading of 134,000.

tell a little more :)
- Innovation equipment line
- Adaptive headlights
- Automatic air conditioning 2 zones
- IntelliLink Navi
- Bluetooth hands-free system and coupling with iPod, etc for music and films
- cruise control
- Parking beeper front and rear
- Rear wipers because I hate not seeing anything: D
- The engine is the 2l diesel with 140 HP. It's OK. you can travel relaxed at 180. max is so 210 on the speedometer. But the engine is quite rough and clearly noticeable. The larger ones may be a bit quieter. But I am satisfied.

My new :)
It could be an idea lower, but otherwise a pretty car.

My new :)

Visually really nice car, but unfortunately the rear is completely unusable. Even I, as a medium-sized European, cannot sit up straight at the back.

Otherwise it would have been really worth considering.

It could be an idea lower, but otherwise a pretty car.

that would be of any use besides making an everyday car less comfortable?

similarly useful as 20-inch low-profile tires on a mercedes.

that would be of any use besides making an everyday car less comfortable?


Applause in front of the ice cream parlor? SCNR;)
I can't get anything out of the lowering mania for "everyday cars" either. A GW-FW still makes sense if you are more sporty for cornering, but you often accept a few disadvantages (putting it on in parking garages or in snow).

I find it very bad when you only install springs because of the optics and spoil the driving behavior ...

Hmm why? There are also animal vacations that are not that bad.I liked the one from Irmscher's sport. 20mm deeper and such a coherent look is ok.

Because the series dampers are not matched to the shorter springs. IMO, that is actually a bit of a botch, because it always worsens the driving behavior. The question is, of course, how much and whether you notice it (at 20 mm, that should be very limited). If the latter does not apply, of course it does not matter.

If so, IMO makes sense to have a thread that can be turned down discreetly and there are even models with better comfort and better handling than the standard FW, especially if this is relatively hard tuned.

Wow, after 4 weeks my car is finally ready ... I can finally pick it up on Friday. But now I can argue with the registration office about a short license plate: ugly:

that would be of any use besides making an everyday car less comfortable?

Would he look better? : rolleyes:
But it was clear that it would be another 3DC expert blue out of it. ;)

Blafasel to the power of ten: Physical fundamentals don't just change in practice, they also apply there. It has nothing to do with any theories. If your engine knocks at 98 RON, even knocks so that you notice it, something is completely wrong.

Then explain to me physically why my silencer is not sooty.
When I am strolling through the street and amusingly looking at the mud pipes of other district direct injection engines, I always think: It's good that I fill up with Ultimate 102.
And, if the engine on the 98ROZ reduces its power, then you've saved in the wrong place.

Maybe it's non-stick coated with Teflon;) It has been proven that you don't have less soot emissions, it doesn't matter what you fill up with.
Your motor is set to a maximum of ROZ98 aka Super + and below that the head control is activated.
Under normal conditions, however, you cannot hear anything about the knocking itself, even if you were to fill up with the normal gasoline, which is no longer available ...

But I give up discussing with someone who is resistant in that regard. The best thing to do in the future is to fill up with pure ethanol, as your engine will certainly adapt to it;)

The 135i certainly does not reduce the performance at 98ROZ. That is completely wrong. Just take a look at your manual to see what it says about fuel. It certainly says something like "The engine is designed for 98ROZ, 95ROZ is possible but not optimal, minimum quality 91ROZ"
100 is probably not even mentioned there. I am also not aware of any "normal" car that is designed for 100 (+) RON ex works. Doesn't make sense either, as 98 is sometimes not even available in other European countries. Let alone in the rest of the world.

Maybe it's non-stick coated with Teflon;) It has been proven that you don't have less soot emissions, it doesn't matter what you fill up with.
Your motor is set to a maximum of ROZ98 aka Super + and below that the head control is activated.
Under normal conditions, however, you cannot hear anything about the knocking itself, even if you were to fill up with the normal gasoline, which is no longer available ...

But I give up discussing with someone who is resistant in that regard. The best thing to do in the future is to fill up with pure ethanol, as your engine will certainly adapt to it;)

No, I am not resistant, on the contrary, I am extremely interested in the subject.
The picture of the 335i that I quoted at the time had extremely black tailpipes, which I, as a long-distance driver, concluded on short-haul, because the tailpipes of my 135i are almost bare.
Since then you have consistently maintained that a gasoline direct injection unit has to be sooty and is therefore normal and now I am supposed to fill up with ethanol at once, which cools the engine - it's kind of incoherent confusion; D from you ... oops, ahaaaaa now I understand: cooling-> less Combustion-> less soot, so fill up with E10, you could be right that it is not due to Ultimate 102.

The 135i certainly does not reduce the performance at 98ROZ. That is completely wrong. t.
Of course, it takes back if you constantly heat around in the summer heat.
Then what's the point of the ignition timing shift for?
The 102 has more reserve, i.e. the ignition point is not shifted or is shifted extremely much later. The engine oil is more likely to boil.

To the Mazda: Pictures please: D

When he's done ... at the moment he's still at the painter's.
:)

And how many km do you drive with it per year? Summer + winter?

Relatively few...

With the MX-5 I drove 102TKm in about 15 years, with the Elli about 21TKm in 4 years (including track days / arrival / departure / trips / regulars / workshop trips -> should make up the majority).

The MX-5 is now registered all year round; but is not moved in winter as soon as it has been spread until the brine has been washed away again; Elli is registered from 03-10.

From '99 to '07 I still had an old Audi 80 CC BJ'84 as a winter chorus; I took it over from my grandfather at 198Km and disposed of it at 242Km (about 3 months before the scrapping premium).
: mad:

The bottom line is 167 thousand km in 15 years = approx. 11.2 thousand km / year on average.
However, these are currently significantly fewer; because I haven't needed a car for work since '04 (800m way to work).
If I take the numbers from '04, I come to about 7TKm / year.

A car is a hobby for me and a bit of luxury / convenience, I don't really need it.

Of course, it takes back if you constantly heat around in the summer heat.
Then what's the point of the ignition point shift for?
The 102 has more reserve, i.e. the ignition point is not shifted or is shifted extremely much later. The engine oil is more likely to boil.
I doubt that this will happen with 98ROZ precisely because the engine is designed for 98. It should work in all operating states. The manufacturers do not drive thousands of kilometers through Death Valley and Sweden without necessity.

Of course, it takes back if you constantly heat around in the summer heat.
Then what's the point of the ignition point shift for?
The 102 has more reserve, i.e. the ignition point is not shifted or is shifted extremely much later. The engine oil is more likely to boil.
This is simply nonsense and my time is too good for that ...

This is simply nonsense and my time is too good for that ...

Summer -> high air pressure-> high boost pressure -> knocking with ROZ98 most likely

Who is knocking there (http://germanbricks.com/?Tuning)

Under the 2nd picture "Measures"

So why play on the turbo or accept a loss of performance "thanks" to the knock control when you can fill up with the Ultimate 102 !?

Reading and understanding is not your forte, is it?
At ROZ98, even in midsummer in Dubai, nothing knocks if you haven't tinkered with the engine, which, by the way, is also stated in the linked article that you apparently only skimmed over. I'm out.

This is simply nonsense and my time is too good for that ...
Why, isn't he right?

ROZ102 is more knock-resistant than ROZ98 and with appropriate ambient conditions you have more reserves (even without map adjustment). The only question is whether these environmental conditions will ever be achieved.

That's the way it is with knowledge read from the Internet, it is theoretically correct: D.

Reading and understanding is not your forte, is it?
At ROZ98, even in midsummer in Dubai, nothing knocks if you haven't tinkered with the engine, which, by the way, is also stated in the linked article that you apparently only skimmed over. I'm out.

Why was 98 introduced? Because it also started knocking with the 95, because due to global warming, the summers became hotter and thus the 98 was introduced, which is not absolutely knock-proof, because the 102 is available at the gas station. This is absolutely knock-proof, because otherwise there would be EVEN higher quality petrol on the public transport network.

Why was 98 introduced? Because it also started knocking with the 95, because due to global warming, the summers became hotter and thus the 98 was introduced, which is not absolutely knock-proof, because the 102 is available at the gas station. This is absolutely knock-proof, because otherwise there would be even higher quality petrol on the public road, right?
If by global warming you mean high-compression, high-revving and highly charged engines, then you are indeed right. ROZ98 was introduced because of global warming.

Ultimate cannot be absolutely knock-proof, otherwise there would be no racing fuel with ~ ROZ120.

have higher gasoline been introduced because of the summers? what do they drive in africa?

.

Ultimate cannot be absolutely knock-proof, otherwise there would be no racing fuel with ~ ROZ120.

: cool: 102 is still enough, otherwise the 120 would have long since been available at the public gas station. : rolleyes:

because otherwise there would be EVEN higher quality petrol on the public transport network, right?

Because due to global warming, the summers became hotter and thus 98 was introduced

; D

Maybe your exhaust has a hole somewhere and all the mud is sooty you a place far in front of the bare tailpipe? ;)

have higher gasoline been introduced because of the summers? what do they drive in africa?
91roz at least outside of rich countries like South Africa.

come to ~ 32Cent :(
There I can under:
My girlfriend's 91 Peugeot 309 Diesel: 16 cents per km
(but it's a completely different vehicle class ^^)
'00s Citroen Xantia HDI: about 20 cents per km (have only had it since August '13)

In both cases, depreciation of the purchase, tires, maintenance, taxes, insurance, fuel, etc. included. They're both economical and cheap to buy.

; D

Maybe your exhaust has a hole somewhere and all that mud is sooty you a place far in front of the bare tailpipe? ;)

So for the inspection before the warranty expires, the experts present were enthusiastic about the cleanliness of the engine compartment and the underbody.
When I noticed that the 135i is housed in an air-conditioned garage, those present, including my personality, kept their thumbs up, or there was collective clapping.

When I noticed that the 135i is housed in an air-conditioned garage, those present, including my personality, kept their thumbs up, or there was collective clapping.

Clap: |? I am probably not "German" enough when it comes to personal ties to cars: freak :.

They probably applauded because they were happy about the milking cow

When I noticed that the 135i is housed in an air-conditioned garage, those present, including my personality, kept their thumbs up, or there was collective clapping.

; D; D

Clap: |? I am probably not "German" enough when it comes to personal ties to cars: freak :.
You don't use your car model as a nickname either: freak:
I just imagine what it would be like if only Golfs would talk to Clios, 135is, Ädäms and Co. in this forum. For a better differentiation I suggest nicknames like e.g. "Sauberer-Auspuff-135i" or "Alles-unter-102ROZ-klopft-135i" and "Rostlauben-Ceed"; D

So for the inspection before the warranty expires, the experts present were enthusiastic about the cleanliness of the engine compartment and the underbody.
When I noticed that the 135i is housed in an air-conditioned garage, those present, including my personality, kept their thumbs up, or there was collective clapping.
So this post is clearly one of the "best of" the forum ...: D

I apply for my nick to be changed to Ford Focus .. if it could still read "Scheiß Rostlaube", I would be very connected to the administration ..

So for the inspection before the warranty expires, the experts present were enthusiastic about the cleanliness of the engine compartment and the underbody.
When I noticed that the 135i is housed in an air-conditioned garage, those present, including my personality, kept their thumbs up, or there was collective clapping.

big cinema

I say that all the auto threads are not good for the forum.
They attract the "wrong" clientele. : freak:

big cinema
* Ball on the ground *; D

Specialists clapping while inspecting a car? WTF?
I would call myself a car crazy, but that's really too hard.

Nice read request about gas. "I need something big. He must be able to pull 3500kg" .... an X5 only comes with a load increase. The Cayenne is probably still working. Let's see if he buys a F150: D

So for the inspection before the warranty expires, the experts present were enthusiastic about the cleanliness of the engine compartment and the underbody.
When I noticed that the 135i is housed in an air-conditioned garage, those present, including my personality, kept their thumbs up, or there was collective clapping.
Did you give kisses or something like that?
"Ehj, trainee Werne come here. The customer has a garage with Heitzungggggg. Everyone clap"

You don't think so yourself ...

A Touareg can do that too :)

Sure they didn't clap like that, Sauberes_Rohr_135i?
http://i.imgur.com/sWiS2.gif


http://data3.whicdn.com/images/84235743/thumb.jpg

Or like this, including thumbs up:

http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m5th7kk8Pl1qca6l1.gif

The master of the local Daimler dealer also always clapped for joy when he had the last visit to my father's workshop before the warranty expired .. if he had not committed suicide beforehand ..: D

I apply for my nick to be changed to Ford Focus .. if it could still read "Scheiß Rostlaube", I would be very connected to the administration ..

Good idea, you should be able to name your rank yourself. So from now on please Astra GTC "dirt rattle box".

So for the inspection before the warranty expires, the experts present were enthusiastic about the cleanliness of the engine compartment and the underbody.
When I noticed that the 135i is housed in an air-conditioned garage, those present, including my personality, kept their thumbs up, or there was collective clapping.

rly? ; D

http://media0.giphy.com/media/ZwxN341b8glIA/giphy.gif

* Ball on the ground *; D

Specialists clapping while inspecting a car? WTF?
I would call myself a car crazy, but that's really too hard. That's not all: After that, they carried him out on their shoulders and he also got money out during the inspection.


Is it okay now?


Yes, it is. We had our fun. Seriously again, please.

http://abload.de/img/img_20130428_1200111gnqo9.jpg

Still this one. (Yes, I know, I posted that 100 pages ago)
I bought it because it was cheap, I want to keep it because I just like it and it's reliable except for the little things.

Meanwhile I've torn 20,000km down, a total of 195,000km are now on it and everything is still running smoothly.

I was able to reduce the consumption to a good 8l / 100km, which is okay for my driving style.

TÜV's until 05/2015, after that there will be scythe, as I don't want to invest any money in repairs.

Unfortunately, I don't have the leisure to sit down properly on the body, remove rust, touch up paint, etc.
It's always difficult to say what is more financially worthwhile in the long term.
Well, let's see.

Yes, it is. We had our fun. Seriously again, please.

: up:

You shouldn't get too stuck on the octane rating. If so, E85 (104 RON), LPG (103-111 RON) and CNG (120-130 RON) would be the "highest quality" petrol available. http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oktzahl#Oktzahlbedarf_eines_Ottomotors

What makes me particularly puzzled about the premium varieties: Maybe the additional additives have a minimal effect. But unfortunately they also decompose again relatively quickly. Since the purchase quantities are probably not that high here, what comes out of the pump is probably not much better than "normal" Super E5 (due to long storage times).

But unfortunately they also decompose again relatively quickly. Since the purchase quantities are probably not that high here, what comes out of the pump is probably not much better than "normal" Super E5 (due to long storage times).
I had already written. I have to see if I can find it again, but there were random sample analyzes that for this very reason (longer storage time in the tanks) certified Ultimate and VPower a poorer fuel quality than Super +.
For me, however, it was mainly about the soot story with gasoline direct injection engines and the old wives' tale that these fuels would contribute less to it.

I say that all the auto threads are not good for the forum.
They attract the "wrong" clientele. : freak:

a few negative examples shouldn't spoil the fun for the sensible ones. Most of the time, the clientele is kind enough to name themselves appropriately. something like that is going to ignore here, if i want to talk on the level i go to the playground. you just know what's going on when some people share the nick with a car. player 51 from reinickendorf has also stigmatized himself;)

@ e85

the stuff is really a corner better.if you can adjust the engine to it, there is more power. very easily. provided the ings have not built in any manure that the alcohol can eat away.

@ e85

the stuff is really a corner better. if you can adjust the engine to it, there is more power. very easily. provided that the ings business administration staff did not have any dung built in that the alcohol would eat away.

fixed

http://abload.de/img/img_20130428_1200111gnqo9.jpg
TÜV's until 05/2015, after that there will be scythe, as I don't want to invest any money in repairs.
...
Unfortunately, I don't have the leisure to sit down properly on the body, remove rust, touch up paint, etc.
It's always difficult to say what is more financially worthwhile in the long term.
Well, let's see.

Financially, everything is always worthwhile <1000 € for "only" TÜV
if the substance is good it is of course worth a lot more financially

fixed



But a bwler cannot design and is therefore not responsible for the product. I don't take it as an excuse that an ing lets himself be told by arguments about the cheap track from a bwler. you can do that in china, but you destroy german brands and products. the time when the germans were still regarded as the best carmakers dates back to the early 90s and before.

But a bwler cannot design and is therefore not responsible for the product. I don't take it as an excuse that an ing lets himself be told by arguments about the cheap track from a bwler. you can do that in china, but you destroy german brands and products. the time when the germans were still regarded as the best carmakers dates back to the early 90s and before.
But it doesn't help you as an engineer if you are asked how much what can cost.

the fact is that this behavior is tolerated by the ings. originally there was e.g. porsche from a design office. you don't think that ferdinand let rosenberger (at most as a driver but certainly not as a businessman) and piech talk him in at the beginning? he built what he thought was good.

but somehow the pipes came into the company and they were given too much power. i see the ings guilty. bwler did not start a hostile takeover, but were discontinued;)
on the other hand, of course, the unrestrained interpretation of commercialism, including state tolerance. the government could also simply mandate a 10-year warranty on new cars. As an entrepreneur, you are naturally forced to sell scrap somewhere if the buyer does not see the added value of quality.

If so, the customers are to blame - they buy it :)

Financially, everything is worthwhile in any case <1000 € for "only" TÜV
if the substance is good it is of course worth a lot more financially

Huh?

MMn you just keep such an old car alive and as soon as a repair is necessary that exceeds the residual value, that's it. But wasting money is something for the lower class. Somehow I don't see the lover factor in a 316i compact either.

If one regards driving a car in a completely rational way and as a pure cost factor, then one should basically only do what is necessary for safety reasons and required for the TÜV or what maintains the value (for newer cars, inspections, for example). But you don't invest in a car with a residual value of maybe € 1,500 or so. "Invest" in a car at all - nonsense from an economic point of view. May work with old-timers or enthusiast vehicles, but not with mass-produced off-the-shelf goods.

As I said, from a purely economic point of view. If you see your car as a hobby and maybe even tinker with it yourself, you like to put several months' wages in there every year. Should be fine with me too.

Basically, I see my car as a commodity that takes me from A to B and makes shopping easier for me.

To a certain extent, of course, I already "hang" on the box, because I just like it and it drives well, which is why I don't scrap it right away if, for example, the tailgate dampers have to be replaced.

With a few renovations, the box cost a total of 1400 € and so far maybe another 300 € in repairs, i.e. less than 2000 € + insurance + taxes + fuel since 09/2012

A new catalytic converter is due for the next MOT and the cooler will probably not do it for much longer.

Of course I could put a few hundred more in there and hope that the engine + transmission will hold out for another 2 years, but the risk of damage that can only be repaired uneconomically increases immensely with age. And then you get annoyed about the "wasted" hundreds.

On the other hand, I was actually pretty lucky with the purchase and if the car could drive another 3 years, it would be great too ..

I just can't judge it because I just don't have the experience.

For example, a friend bought a much younger Passat at the same time for just under € 7,000 and had more repairs than me.

It's just a lot of luck with such old cars and I think I was just lucky.

Huh?

MMn you just keep such an old car alive and as soon as a repair is necessary that exceeds the residual value, that's it. But wasting money is something for the lower class. Somehow I don't see the lover factor in a 316i compact either.

If you consider driving a completely rational and purely cost factor, then you should basically only do what is necessary for safety reasons and required for the TÜV or what maintains the value (for newer cars, inspections, for example). But you don't invest in a car with a residual value of maybe € 1,500 or so. "Invest" in a car at all - nonsense from an economic point of view. May work with old-timers or enthusiast vehicles, but not with mass-produced off-the-shelf goods.

As I said, from a purely economic point of view. If you see your car as a hobby and maybe even tinker with it yourself, you like to put several monthly salaries in there every year. Should be fine with me too.

Try to find a reasonably acceptable and trustworthy vehicle with 2 years TÜV <1000 €. Such an "investment" can be put into perspective very quickly.

In comparison you have to e.g. Drive a 3 series as a new car (compared to the "<€ 1k in 2years" repair costs) for at least 50-60 years (without anything ever to it) in order to be able to say financially it would have been financially more worthwhile

But a bwler cannot design and is therefore not responsible for the product. I don't take it as an excuse that an ing lets himself be told by arguments about the cheap track from a bwler. you can do that in china, but you destroy german brands and products. the time when the germans were still regarded as the best carmakers dates back to the early 90s and before.

<=== Ing - Automotive

I can only tell you from my daily work experience that for the Ing a high quality product is the goal and nonplusUltra.
Unfortunately, your hands are tied in many places.

Try to find a reasonably acceptable and trustworthy vehicle with 2 years TÜV <1000 €. Such an "investment" can be put into perspective very quickly.

In comparison you have to e.g. Drive a 3 series as a new car (compared to the "<1k € in 2 years" repair costs) for at least 50-60 years (without that ever being there) to be able to say financially it would have been financially more worthwhile

Maybe I misunderstood your sentence, I think you expressed yourself a little unhappily. Also, I was mostly referring to the second sentence about "a lot more".

Let's agree that it's difficult to generalize. You can put € 800 in the car and have 2 years of complete rest or you can put € 800 in the car and have the next repair for € 800 2 months later. Both are possible.

In principle, you have to agree that you bet a lot on luck with a used vehicle in this price range.

<=== Ing - Automotive

I can only tell you from my daily work experience that for the Ing a high quality product is the goal and nonplusUltra.
Unfortunately, your hands are tied in many places.

that's how it should be. A w124 like this is not considered the best car for nothing. it is very much in demand even when used and not just for export. something again with new engines ... a dream. i don't understand why better quality is not possible with an extra charge, or why no manufacturer tries a quality offensive for a change. even if it is only a niche, it is not served.
there are all sorts of lifestyle models that don't sell really well either. I ask myself why the ings at least not at the management level, after the bwler have already screwed up a lot.

In principle, you have to agree that you bet a lot of luck with a neglected / "burned up" used vehicle in this price range.

;)

A car that has been serviced halfway has extremely seldom unexpected damage, even with a higher mileage - most of it announces itself more or less slowly, if then months in advance.
There will be a reason why many old, but solid / simple carts experience a second spring in Africa after their "economic" lifespan ... certainly not because the Africans put more coal into the cars than we do: biggrin :.

As a layperson, you don't necessarily quickly recognize the neglected / burned out factor.
And even "professionals" can overlook things.

That's what I mean by luck.

There will be a reason why many old, but solid / simple carts experience a second spring in Africa after their "economic" lifespan ... certainly not because the Africans put more coal into the cars than we do: biggrin :.

well, for 100 euros you can also get 10 black hammers, which you can make every body halfway straight. but these are no longer good cars that go there. as long as the car is driving, that's ok for them. they have a similar practical disposition to improvisation as the russians;)

In terms of climate, it's also much more pleasant for the car in Africa than it is here.

TÜV's until 05/2015, after that there will be scythe, as I don't want to invest any money in repairs.

Unfortunately, I don't have the leisure to sit down properly on the body, remove rust, touch up paint, etc.
It's always difficult to say what is more financially worthwhile in the long term.
Well, let's see.

The E36 compact is just an awesome car. Still a little dream as 323ti today: rolleyes: Hopefully you will have a long (driving) fun with it.

If the TÜV writes in the report "Max. Rear license plate size: 34x18cm", why do they say at the registration office "Doesn't work, is not permitted or against the law. You get a large one and have to bend it".?

: ugly:

Now I can argue with them.

If the TÜV writes in the report "Max. Rear license plate size: 34x18cm", why do they say at the registration office "Doesn't work, is not permitted or against the law. You get a large one and have to bend it".?

Bending doesn't sound permissible to me either. but the stvo says:

"b) two-line license plates: maximum width: 340 mm, for two- and three-wheeled vehicles 280 mm, height: 200 mm
d) Reduced two-line license plate: maximum width: 255 mm, height: 130 mm.
Reduced two-line license plates may only be assigned to light motorcycles and vehicles in accordance with Section 10 (6) number 3. "

Regarding b) but that is too much height, according to my reading the largest dimension only refers to the width.
to d) you are not allowed to, because you probably do not have an "agricultural or forestry tractor"

Bending doesn't sound permissible to me either. but the stvo says

According to the registration office, you can bend the license plate 30 ° in any direction ...: ugly:

But wasting money is something for the lower class.
Great, now repairing such an old Kare is an "underclass" thing. Otherwise everything works fine, right?


BTT
Is this new? Car lighting as bright as the sun? Nowhere to be seen of the car, but the license plate shines like a lightsaber

Bending doesn't sound permissible to me either. but the stvo says:

"b) two-line license plate: maximum width: 340 mm, for two- and three-wheeled vehicles 280 mm, height: 200 mm
d) Reduced two-line license plate: maximum width: 255 mm, height: 130 mm.
Reduced two-line license plates may only be assigned to light motorcycles and vehicles in accordance with Section 10 (6) number 3. "

Regarding b) but that is too much height, according to my reading the largest dimension only refers to the width.
to d) you are not allowed to because you probably don't have an "agricultural or forestry tractor"

That doesn't seem to matter to the Americans here ...

Great, now repairing such an old Kare is an "underclass" thing. Otherwise everything works fine, right?


BTT
Is this new? Car lighting as bright as the sun? Nowhere to be seen of the car, but the license plate shines like a lightsaber
The license plate itself or a license plate light?
The self-luminous license plate has not been sold to AFAIR for a long time (was legal and with approval, but that is actually not particularly bright), with the license plate lighting, village youth and other prolls like to screw in (illegally) day-bright LEDs that top any rear fog light. I almost pulled such an asshole out of the car once after he turned into a parking lot in front of me ...

The license plate itself or a license plate light?
The self-luminous license plate has not been sold to AFAIR for a long time (was legal and with approval, but that is actually not particularly bright), with the license plate lighting, village youth and other prolls like to screw in (illegally) day-bright LEDs that top any rear fog light. I almost pulled such an asshole out of the car once after he turned into a parking lot in front of me ...

So the SLN from 3M is definitely still being sold ... IIRC were / are there in the meantime different manufacturers, but that was probably the first one, I think it was also available ex works for the VW Phaeton (was?).
Edit: or have they been leftovers for years? Then I would have to tear myself one more thing under the nail, in case the current one should give up the ghost: uponder :.

Great, now repairing such an old Kare is an "underclass" thing. Otherwise everything works fine, right?

Everything is fine, thanks for asking. Possibly you read through the context of the quote again, because it was expensive, possibly even unnecessary repairs (optics & Co.).

So the SLN from 3M is definitely still being sold ... IIRC were / are there in the meantime different manufacturers, but that was probably the first one, I think also available ex works for the VW Phaeton (was?).