How hot is the car exhaust on average

How hot does a Golf II rear silencer get?

Hello Leutz,

the question is - how hot does a Golf II rear silencer get on average and maximum? Does it differ depending on the engine power? Does anyone have any values?

Kind regards

Best answer on the topic

well, even if you paint the outside ... it rusts from the inside out first ...

so nothing ...

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22 answers

no idea how hot it will be

it also depends on the machine and the driving style,

also on the condition of the engine and the setting of the ignition.

the cat will then be between 550 and 800 ° C warm

purely speculative, the front silencer due to the wind approx

about 300 ° C - 400 ° held / cooled. I guess the min

half is still in contact with the rear silencer.

I haven't measured it yet.

Thanks for the answer first,

the engine is a 1.6l 75PS EZ from 83 '. Let's assume that the ignition works, it is midsummer and I "race along" the autobahn for 1 hour at 150km / h and then graze the country road for another hour with a relaxed 120 ... How hot will it be estimated (or does it know someone exactly?) the final pot?

It's about the following: I need a new silencer, I want the thing to last a long time and look good, but I don't want to spend any money on stainless steel ... now I had the idea to buy a silencer "off the shelf" and to powder coat it to let. According to my information, however, with powder coating, the puke limit is at 200 degrees ... Perhaps someone can comment on that too? (The best thing to do is to ask my specialist powder coating specialist.)

It is therefore important for me to find out how hot the final pot gets.

Kind regards

if you want to have a long rest - you won't get around stainless steel. But the money is very well invested in a car that you drive for longer.

Just for the sake of completeness, I'll dig up the topic again:

Yesterday I happened to see spray cans with exhaust paint in the "auto department" (laughs) in the hardware store. The stuff is supposed to cost around € 13.50 and comes in black and gray. Black should be heat-resistant up to 800 ° C, gray up to 650 ° C! So there is something suitable ...;)

Quote:

if you want to have a long rest - you won't get around stainless steel. But the money is very well invested in a car that you drive for longer.

But then you would have to take a whole exhaust system in a sensible way so that you don't "contaminate" the stainless steel stuff, right? That's too expensive for me at the moment ... :(

Already had a lot of stainless steel systems, also complete and all held for as long as non-stainless steel systems because the weld seams gammeln away.

The problem is the short distances, then the sweat tends to collect in the pot. But if you drill a small hole at the deepest point so that it can come out, not much happens. Have e.g. the Opel pots. I always do. Then last longer.

MFG Sebastian

our systems are not rotten. are completely stainless steel, unfortunately not available for 2 series. except custom-made ... I don't even know what everyone has.

I also painted my esd black on the back, except for the tailpipe, because it was too shiny ...

With normal black lacquer. Holds until now, but it depends on how it is constructed. With chambers inside, it is hotter than when the things are free, even with a smaller diameter the warmer

Quote:

Originally written by carav

Already had a lot of stainless steel systems, also complete and all held for as long as non-stainless steel systems because the weld seams gammeln away.

Hmm ... probably the noble stainless steel taken from the welding in the production ...;)

Quote:

Originally written by Superbasti1

The problem is the short distances, then the sweat tends to collect in the pot. But if you drill a small hole at the deepest point so that it can come out, not much happens. Have e.g. the Opel pots. I always do. Then hold longer.

Ok, if it's done originally - that's fine! But even drill a small hole in a silencer ... I don't know ?! What about changing the sound? What about faster rust formation at the drilled point? What about back pressure change for the engine?

How big is the hole that you are drilling there?

Quote:

Originally written by Silent Shout

our systems do not rot.

And who are you? I assume you pay attention to some important points when welding so that the welds don't rust!

The problem with heat-resistant paints is the fact that they have to be permanently heated to 180 degrees for an hour to harden. Show me how to get the final pot in the electric stove. : D

bla bla bla...

blah ....

hehe ....

no plan from VA or possibly alloyed steels, but talk big ....

VA becomes structural steel during welding, or what?

ok all right .... sure oxidized ne VA seam. but it does not corrode, will not rust through

similar to alu ... but ok .....

only stoving enamels have to be baked in ..... it is clear that a heat-resistant lacquer from the can does not really hold up much, but does not have to be baked into

Mh ... at least that's what I read on the can in the Obi ?! Was declared as heat-resistant paint. Take a look at the brake caliper paint to see what it says on it. :)

To the hole in the muffler .. I have with me too. Start with a very small drill bit (3mm or so ... just so that any water can get away from the inside. If necessary, drill further in very small steps; depending on the rust.;)

My walker has lasted for a good 8 years. ;)

Quote:

Originally written by IceD @ te

Quote:

Originally written by Superbasti1

The problem is the short distances, then the sweat tends to collect in the pot. But if you drill a small hole at the deepest point so that it can come out, not much happens. Have e.g. the Opel pots. I always do. Then last longer.

Ok, if it's done originally - that's fine! But even drill a small hole in a silencer ... I don't know ?! What about changing the sound? What about faster rust formation at the drilled point? What about change in back pressure for the engine?

How big is the hole that you are drilling there?

The hole is then around 2-3mm in size. It is clear that you have to do something with rust protection there. But you don't really change a lot in terms of sound. And the Tüv people usually do not miss that anyway. Or do you mean, who knows which exhaust where which hole for drainage has?

MFG Sebastian